Tarte Tatin

9/20/11

VEGETABLES

GARLIC -There are two types of garlic:  (1) Softneck garlic is the most common type. Almost all supermarket garlic is a softneck variety, because it is easier to grow and  keeps longer than the hardneck variety. Softnecks have white papery skin and multiple cloves, often forming several layers around the central core. Its flexible stalk allows softneck garlic to be formed into braids.  (2) Hardneck garlic has a "scape," or stalk, which coils from the top; the top end of the scape has a flower-like bubils. Hardneck garlics have fewer, larger cloves then the softnecks, and a much thinner outer skin, or sometimes none at all, which makes them more sensitive and reduces their
shelf life. Hardneck garlics include (1) rocambole, which has up to a dozen cloves of a tan or browny colour; (2) porcelain, which has a satiny white wrapper and the fewest cloves in a bulb (it’s often mistaken for elephant garlic); and (3) and purple stripe, which has bright purple markings. Store garlic in a well-ventilated container in a cool, dark place; they have a long shelf life.
GINGER -Buy ginger (a rhizome) that has smooth, shiny skin – ginger with wrinkled skin will be tough and stringy and will have a lot less ginger flavor. The best way to store ginger is to place it in small paper bag in your vegetable crisper drawer. You can also freeze grated ginger if you have more than you can use—roll the grated ginger in plastic wrap (like a thick cigarette), twist the ends, and freeze; when you need to use some, just unwrap and snap off a portion; it doesn’t take long to defrost. 
ONIONS -Spring/summer onions are grown in warm weather climates and have characteristic mild or sweet tastes. Included in this group are the Maui Sweet Onion (in season April through June), Vidalia (in season May through June) and Walla Walla (in season July and August). Storage onions are grown in colder weather climates and, after harvesting, are dried out for a period of several months, which allows them to attain dry, crisp skins. They generally have a more pungent flavor and are usually named by their color: white, yellow or red. Spanish onions are also in this group, and are the most commonly used for everyday cooking. There are also smaller varieties such as the green onion, scallion, and the pearl onion.
Store onions in a well-ventilated space at room temperature, away from heat and bright light. Do not store onions next to potatoes as they will absorb the potatoes’ moisture and ethylene gas, which will cause the onions to spoil more quickly. With the exception of green onions, do not refrigerate onions. Place them in a wire hanging basket or a perforated bowl with a raised base so that air can circulate underneath. Onions with a more pungent flavor (such as yellow onions) could keep for about a month if stored properly—they will keep longer than the sweeter onions (such as white onions). Store scallions in a plastic bag in the refrigerator; they will keep for about a week. The length of storage varies with the type of onion. Those that are more pungent in flavor, such as yellow onions, should keep for about a month if stored properly. They will keep longer than those with a sweeter taste, such as white onions, since the compounds that confer their sharp taste help to preserve them.
Cutting Onions - If your eyes are sensitive to the gas that onions release when cut, cutting them with a sharp knife will help. Also, consider (1) cutting the onion by an open window; (2) wearing glasses or goggles; and (3) chilling the onion for an hour or so before cutting, which will slow down the onion’s metabolism and lessen the gas that it will release when cut. It is not recommended cutting the onion under cold, running water as this will wash away some of the flavor and nutrients of the onion.
Types of Onions: Bermuda Onion -a big onion with a mild flavor and white flesh. Bermuda onions are believed to be of Italian origin. Boiling Onion - a small thin-skinned onion that is good for stew recipes. Cipollini - a rich, sweet onion from Italy shaped like a flying saucer. Cocktail Onion - the smallest onion variety; sold pickled in vinegar and have a sweet, white flesh. Egyptian Onion - also known as top onions, tree onions, walking onions or winter onions, these onions are very strong flavored. Their green stalks are also edible. Fresh Onion - also known as spring/summer onions, these onions come in yellow, white or red varieties. They are sweet and mild, and are suited to salads and lightly cooked recipes. Green Onion –young onions harvested when their shoots are still green; their flavor is similar to yellow onions; both the bulb and the green stems can used in cooking. Leeks - a mild flavored, pale green and white member of the onion family. The edible part of the leek, also known as the stalk or stem, is a bundle of leaf sheaths. Maui Onion - sweet, juicy onions with a golden yellow skin, grown in Maui, Hawaii; they are much heavier and are shaped like flattened globes. They make great onion rings. Pearl Onion - also known as baby onions or button onions; they are often used for pickling as cocktail onions, but they can also used for cooking stews and casseroles. Red Onion - also known as purple onions; it has a purplish red skin and white flesh tinged with purple. Red onions are mild to sweet in flavor and grow quite big. They are often eaten raw in salads but they can be cooked and added to other recipes. The flesh loses its purplish color when the onion is cooked. Red onions are not as common as yellow onions but you can substitute them in a lot of onion recipes. Scallion - also known as spring onion or green onion, scallions are milder than other onions and are often used in Asian cooking. Shallot – a smaller, sweeter, milder relative of the onion with a delicate, mild flavor. Spanish Onion – can be yellow, white, and red, and commonly used in everyday cooking. Storage Onion – also commonly used in everyday cooking; they have an intense flavor and are suited for savory dishes that need a strong flavor and that are cooked for a long time. Vidalia Onion - also known as Yellow Granax, named named for its growing location in Georgia. Other notable sweet onions include the Walla Walla, the Sweet Imperial, and the Spring Sweet. Vidalia onions are often used in salads, in onion soup and in any dish where a sweet onion flavor is preferred over a pungent taste. Walla Walla - a sweet onion with a white flesh, named for its growing location in Washington.  White Onion – has white skin and a strong flavor; commonly used in Mexican cooking; it is also suited for making Frenh onion soup because they turn to a deep brown color when sautéed for a long time. They are also good for making onion rings. Yellow Onion - the most common variety of onion, yellow onions have a brown skin and white flesh; it’s the most commonly used onion in everyday cooking.

POTATOES -Potatoes stored in a cool, dark place will keep firm and won't sprout for about 4 weeks. They can also be refrigerated, although some experts say that the sugar level dramatically increases in some potato varieties when refrigerated. To keep potatoes from budding or sprouting, place an apple in a bag with the potatoes. Don't store potatoes next to onions. If the potatoes develop a green tinge on the edges, remove and discard the affected areas before cooking; the greenish tinge is solanine, a naturally occurring toxin, which is not destroyed by cooking. Sprouts also contain solanine, and should be cut away before cooking.
High Starch/Low-Moisture Potatoes:  Earthy flavored russets and Idahos are the best choice for fluffy French fries, roasted potatoes, and archetypical creamy mashed potatoes. They, however, lose their shape when simmered in soups or stews. Because they have so little moisture, they tend to soak up liquid as they cook and eventually implode. In some cases, as when you want the potatoes to thicken a soup, this can be desirable.
Low Starch/High Moisture Potatoes:  Sometimes called boiling or “waxy” potatoes, this variety holds their shape better than other potatoes when simmered. This category includes all red-skinned potatoes, such as Red Bliss and Red Creamer, as well as freshly dug potatoes, which are often labeled "new" potatoes. Low-starch potatoes should be selected when potatoes are to hold their shape, like in a soup or salad. That being said, the test kitchen can favor russets for a particular salad because of their unique ability to absorb the flavorings; see All-American Potato Salad.
Medium Starch:  Buttery Yukon Golds, Yellow Finns, Purple Peruvians, and all-purpose potatoes do a better job of holding their shape but share many traits in common with high-starch potatoes.

TOMATOES -Store fresh ripe tomatoes in a cool, dark place, in a bowl lined with paper towel, and use within a few days (do not put them in plastic bags or they will rot faster). Do not refrigerate tomatoes as the cold temperature will affect the flavor and turn them mealy; if you must refrigerate them, take them out about an hour before using and let them come to room temperature.
Canned Tomatoes - Unopened canned tomatoes should be used within six months. Once opened, store the tomatoes in a covered glass container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Tomato Paste/Sauce - Leftover tomato paste and tomato sauce can be frozen for up to two months. Freeze one tablespoon of tomato paste in each section of an ice tray, pop out when frozen, and seal in an airtight ziploc for quick, pre-measured additions to soups and sauces. In most cases, they don’t need to be thawed prior to cooking.
Freezing Tomatoes - Rinse the tomatoes and dry them thoroughly. Place in ziploc bags and suck out the air with a straw. No peeling or blanching is necessary. Once thawed, the skins will easily slip off. They will be perfect for cooked dishes and will retain more of that fresh flavor, rather than the cooked, canned flavor.


ROOT VEGETABLES
Beet, Red – sometimes called garden beets, red beets have a smooth, dense flesh with a sweet, earthy flavor. Peel, shred, and eat raw; roast, boil or steam until tender; or sauté the flavorful leaves. Unlike golden beets, the juice of red beets can leave a red stain on your hands, cutting boards, and other vegetables.
Beet, Golden – have a brilliant yellow flesh that is sweet and mild. Although they taste similar to red beets, their juices do not stain in the same way, making them ideal for tossing into salads or combining with other vegetables.
Carrot – is a member of the parsley family; purple carrots hold their striking color when cooked, and are less sweet than orange carrots; the flesh of purple carrots can stain like beets.
Cassava – also called yucca or manioc, cassava has a dry, super-starchy texture and a flavor vaguely reminiscent of popcorn. Although raw cassava can be poisonous, thorough cooking eliminates any danger. Steam, boil, or fry. In the Philippines, grated cassava is squeezed by the handful to get rid of its “milk” and the grated flesh used to make a cake for dessert.
Celeriac – also known as celery root; this gnarled bulb is a variety of celery grown specifically for the root; the flavor is a cross between celery and parsley, with a lemony tinge and a soft but slightly fibrous texture; peel, finely chop, and eat raw, or steam, boil or roast.
Crosne – sometimes called Japanese or Chinese artichokes, these tiny, segmented tubers are native to France. The skin is edible and the flesh pleasantly crunchy, with a water chestnut-like texture and slight artichoke flavor. Steam, boil, sauté, or roast.
Jerusalem Artichoke – also called sunchokes, these tubers are the roots of a variety of sunflower. Although they resemble gingerroot, their thin skin covers a crunchy white flesh that is distinctly nutty, with a slight smoky taste. Slice thinly and ear raw or steam, boil, or roast.
Jicama – has cream-colored, crisp-textured flesh that tastes like a mix of apple, potato, and watermelon. It is often cut into matchsticks and added to salads, but it can also be steamed, boiled, fried, or even pickled. In the Philippines, peeled slices are eaten as a snack, dipped in salted vinegar.
Lotus Root – is the sub-aquatic stem of a variety of water lily. Its smooth skin hides tunneled, flower-patterned flesh with a slippery but crisp texture and subtle mushroom flavor. Store lotus roots submerged in water. Peel and steam or boil.
Oyster Root – an elongated root vegetable that comes in two varieties, black and white. They can used interchangeably, and both exhibit a briny, oyster-like taste and a firm, artichokey quality. Steam, boil, or roast.
Parsnip – is a white carrot; parsnips are sugary and floral, like a carrot doused in perfume. Older, larger parsnips can be tough and fibrous, so buy smaller ones no more than 1 inch in diameter. Peel andsteam, boil, sauté, or roast.
Rutabaga – is cousin to turnip; this large root has thin skin and sweet, golden flesh, with a flavor reminiscent of broccoli and mustard and with a horseradish aftertaste and dense, crunchy texture. Steam, boil, or roast.
Sweet Potato – can have light-yellow to deep-orange flesh; the latter is sweeter and more tender; they do not keep as well as potatoes and should be eaten within a week or two of purchase.
Turnip – is recognizable by its off-white skin capped with a purple halo; when young, they are tender and sweet, but as they age they become increasingly sulphurous, with a tough, woody texture and bitter aftertaste. Peeled turnips can be steamed, boiled, or roasted.
Yam – yams are not a variety of sweet potato, but rather wooly-skinned tubers from the tropics; true yams are uncommon in American home cooking. Yams have an over-the-top starchy texture and a bland, cardboard taste. Steam or boil.

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