Tarte Tatin

9/20/11

DAIRY

EGGS
Store eggs in their original container on the top shelf of the refrigerator; don't store them on the refrigerator door where the temperature is warmer. Egg whites - Freeze individiual egg whites in an ice cube tray, then transfer to a ziploc bag and return to freezer; they will keep for up to 12 months. Thaw the amount you need overnight in the
refrigerator. Previously frozen egg whites will take longer to whip, and could deflate more easily than fresh egg whites, so reserve their use for small needs like an egg wash, and not for dishes that call for volume, like omelets. Egg yolks - Cover unbroken egg yolks in cold water and refrigerate; will last for a week. Drain the water and cook as desired.

Boiled Eggs - Start with eggs at room temperature; if they’re cold, warm them in hot tap water for 5 minutes. Place enough water in the pan to cover the eggs, and bring it to a boil. Carefully put the eggs into the water, and start timing. When the water returns to a boil, turn the heat down to bring the water to a gentle simmer. For a soft-boiled egg that you will scoop out of the shell with a spoon, boil for exactly 4 minutes. For a hard-boiled egg with a soft but not runny yolk, boil for exactly 8 minutes. For a hard-boiled egg with a firm yolk, boil for exactly 10 minutes. Boiling the egg for more than 10 minutes will result in an overcooked egg with a hard yolk that has that nasty dark green layer around it. Of course, the above timings might vary by a minute or so depending on how small or large your eggs are.
     Make sure your eggs don’t have any cracks. If they crack while cooking, add 1 tablespoon of salt to the water to lessen the feathering of the egg white leaking out of the crack. to prevent cracking while the egg cooks, poke a hole in the round end of the egg with a tiny pin—these allows trapped air to escape. If you want the yolk to be centered for better-looking presentation (for example, if you’re making deviled eggs), twirl the eggs gently while cooking. Make ahead and storing: if you’re not using the eggs right away, you can store them in the refrigerator for several hours by cracking them a bit and putting them in a bowl of iced water.

Poached Eggs - Use the freshest eggs you can find, as they will hold their shape better while cooking than older eggs, and will result in less feathering of the egg white. Fresh eggs also have a stronger yolk that’s less likely to break. Poach the eggs straight from the refrigerator – eggs are more viscous when cold and will hold their shape better when added to hot water, and starting with a cold egg will make the egg cook more slowly which will keep the yolk still a bit runny when the white is completely set. Adding a little bit of vinegar and salt to the water – they speed up the denaturing (cooking and hardening) of the proteins in the egg white, allowing the egg to hold its shape better.
How-To:  In a deep skillet large enough to hold the eggs, bring about 2 inches of water to a very gentle simmer. Hold the egg as close to the water surface as possible, then crack the egg and let it fall gently into the water. Alternatively, break the egg into a cup then pour it gently into the simmering water. Simmer for 4 minutes, basting the top of the egg with a little of cooking liquid. Gently scoop out the egg with a slotted spoon or a skimmer; use a knife to trim the feathery whites along the edges. Touch the bottom of the spoon or skimmer on a paper towel to absorb any dripping liquid before sliding the egg onto a serving platter. Alternatively, place a steamer basket to about an inch of water in a pan large enough to hold the basket. Butter a ramekin, break an egg into the ramekin, and put the ramekin on the basket. Put the lid on and “steam” the egg for 3 1/2 minutes.

Scrambled Eggs - American Style:  Allot 2 eggs per person, and use 1 tablespoon of milk or heavy cream per egg. Whisk the eggs and milk in a bowl (just to break up the eggs) and season with salt and pepper. Heat an empty pan over medium-high heat, then spray it lightly with a nonstick cooking spray (adding butter to a very hot pan will immediately burn it, so I use cooking spray) and reduce the heat to medium. Add the eggs and let them sit for a full minute and watch as the egg puffs. Start pushing one edge to the center to allow the uncooked eggs to flow into the bare part of the pan. Keep doing this until there are no more uncooked eggs, and you have a pan of soft mounds that still look moist. Continue to cook until you achieve your desired consistency. Serve immediately.
French Style:  Use a small saucepan filled with about an inch of water, and a metal bowl that will fit in the saucepan halfway down (don’t use a double-boiler).  Beat the eggs thoroughly in another bowl and strain into the metal bowl. Stir in 2 tablespoons of heavy cream per egg. Bring the water to a gentle simmer, place the bowl on top (its bottom should not touch the water); stir with a whisk until the eggs begin to thicken, and until its consistency is a bit thinner than yogurt. Divide into ramekins and garnish the tops with a dollop of caviar.

Omelets - Basic Folded Omelet:  Whisk 2 or 3 eggs with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Using an 8-inch or 10-inch nonstick pan with rounded sloping sides, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over medium to high heat until the butter froths and the froth recedes. Add eggs to the pan and stir with the back of a fork, moving the fork as close to the surface of the pan as possible without touching it. Keep doing this until you have scrambled eggs over a thin layer of completely set egg. Using a fork or spatula, fold the edge farthest from you inward, then do the same for the edge nearest to you, folding it over the first fold. Turn the omelet onto a plate and serve immediately. Filling:  You can fill an omelet by adding some chopped herbs or chopped roasted pepper or tomatoes into the beaten eggs; or adding some grated cheese or diced cooked ham to the omelet just before you fold it; or cutting a slit along the top side of the folded omelet and inserting fillings like cooked mushrooms or vegetables, diced cooked ham, grated cheese, chopped tomatoes, etc.).
Flat Omelet (Torta in the Philippines; Piperade in France; Fritatta in Italy):  Pre-cook the filling you want (meats, potatoes, vegetables). Here’s how I do my Torta: Sauté minced garlic in some heated oil, add sliced onions and cook until soft, then add some chopped tomatoes; add ground veal or chicken and cook until properly done; season with salt and pepper. You can also add some diced potatoes, and green peas as well. Whisk 3 or 4 eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, then add some of the cooked filling; melt some butter in a pan then gently pour in the mixture, spreading the whole thing to cover the pan using a fork or spatula. Two possible ways to finish the dish:  (1) put a plate over the pan, hold it securely and invert the pan to let the omelet fall on the plate; slide the omelet back onto the pan and continue to cook until the bottom and center are cooked; or (2) making sure you’re using an oven-safe skillet, put the skillet in a pre-heated oven to finish the cooking. Can be served hot or cold.

[More to come]

No comments:

Post a Comment